
"I bought one, had a taste, and really, the blend of chocolate, salt and almond made me fall head over heels."



The topic of our weekly NY1 show is just what you need after yesterday’s binge: dark chocolate. We took a trip to Mast Brothers Chocolates in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, where the siblings behind the city’s first true bean-to-bar operation have just expanded their factory by 3,000 square feet and hired Finnish pastry chef Vesa Parviainen to run their new test kitchen.
Parviainen’s now responsible for turning their intensely flavored single origin chocolates–they’re all at least 70 percent cacao—into a range of sweets that reflect the terroir of the brothers’ respective bars. (Our favorite last week? A shortbread wafer sandwich held together by a ganache made from their super smoky Papua New Guinea bar.
The segment was of course inspired by the cover story in the current issue of our sister magazine Edible Brooklyn, where a photographer tailed the brothers Mast on a boat trip to buy beans from a cooperative in the Dominican Republic. You can see those beans being made into Conacado bars at the lovely shop in our NY1 piece (which airs today and again on Sunday; you can also watch it online here) or in person if you take the new tour of the expanded factory. Just don’t try to go today; they’re closed today for the Thanksgiving holiday. Hey, even Williamsburg Willy Wonkas need a break every now and again.
Given their postmodern reappropriation of preindustrial processes, we shouldn’t have been surprised when the brothers decided to think outside the shipping container. In an effort to “be oil- free,” they turned to wind power—not by selecting the turbine option on their electricity bill, but by retrofitting a 70-foot cargo ship into a three-masted shipping schooner called the Black Seal, docking off the Dominican Republic and loading up with nearly 20 tons of organic cocoa beans.
Baffled customs agents, accustomed to narcotics-related chicanery, had a few questions, but eventually Captain Eric Loftfield won approval to point the little ship’s prow north toward Brooklyn. after two weeks out on the atlantic, the crew docked in Red Hook and unloaded 400 bags of cocoa, marking the first time such a ship had arrived in a New York port since 1939.
The brothers are working their way through the magic beans, about a year’s supply, and say they’ll soon be back at sea. Within three years they plan to use only wind and sail to transport all their beans, literally shipping boatloads from Central and South america with less energy than it takes to drive a case of turnips down from the Catskills.



On the Red Hook waterfront next to a container ship carrying 20,000 tons of Ecuadorian bananas, a group of stevedores, sailors and makers of artisanal chocolate spent Tuesday morning unloading 20 tons of cocoa beans out of a 70-foot sailing schooner.
It was the first time a sailing ship had unloaded commercial cargo in New York since 1939, according to one city official.
Two years ago a pair of bearded brothers decided to try importing cocoa for their Williamsburg chocolate factory—which focuses on simple, ecologically friendly sweets—by sail. They hoped it would save energy, help lure environmentally conscious buyers, and, maybe eventually, cost less. Their ship finally came in from the Dominican Republic on Monday night.
"We tend to think of everything as simple as possible," said one of the brothers, Rick Mast. "Why can't you sail it?"
The brothers wanted to get to work unloading right away Monday, but that turned out not to be simple. The piers in Red Hook aren't set up for sailboats, so the deck of the ship was too low for stevedores to safely haul the 150-pound bags of cocoa beans onto dry land. The four-legged rolling behemoths that unload shipping containers, meanwhile, were too large to use. A small crane had to be driven down the Brooklyn-Queens Expressway from Long Island City.
That was how it went for much of the Black Seal's four-week voyage to the Caribbean and back to New York. While sailing ships carrying goods were responsible for much of New York's early development, doing trade that way these days is complicated.
The first problem was finding a cargo ship with sails. Rick and Michael Mast, co-founders of Mast Brothers Chocolate, eventually found the three-masted Black Seal, which Captain Eric Loftfield had spent 25 years building in his Cape Cod lawn as a hobby. Mr. Loftfield spends much of his time piloting ships between Washington and Alaska.
Then they had to figure out where to dock it and unload it. There they had the help of Andrew Genn, the vice president of the New York City Economic Development Corp.'s maritime division. He helped them figure out how to dock the ship at the Red Hook Marine Terminal, in which the city owns a stake.
Once the ship got to New York Harbor, it was slowed down by customs agents who are better acquainted with the mechanics of checking the cargo of giant container ships than small sailboats carrying 20 tons of organic cocoa.
Things were even harder in the Dominican Republic, where officials in the tourist town of Puerto Plata were befuddled by Americans trying to sail away with a cargo hold full of beans.
Rich Falotico, the Mast Brothers' cocoa importer, flew down to help negotiate. He and a representative for the Dominican farmers had to explain to the people running the port, the military and drug-enforcement officers what they were trying to do and that yes, they knew this sort of thing was easier on a big ship with hundreds of metal containers.
"It's a drug route and we've got a sailboat," Mr. Falotico said Tuesday morning on the dock in Red Hook. "It's like: 'What the hell are you guys doing?' "
Eventually the Black Seal departed and made its two-week voyage up the Atlantic Coast to Brooklyn.
Mast Brothers' will turn its cocoa beans into chocolate over the next year. They'll sell it to big-name chefs like Thomas Keller and Dan Barber and in grocery stores like Dean & DeLuca. Mr. Mast estimates that the Black Seal's shipment of cocoa will end up costing 25% to 30% more than usual. But he hopes to repeat the trip again and expects costs to decline as the company make its shipping operation more efficient.
Members of Mast Brothers Chocolate depart with Captain Eric Loftfield and the crew of the Black Seal to retrieve cocoa beans from the recent harvest in the Dominican Republic.
About five years ago, Rick and Michael Mast started making chocolate from scratch in their Brooklyn apartment to serve at their big dinner parties. Their friends gushed so over the treats that the brothers—two Iowa boys who moved to New York a decade ago to attend cooking school and film school, respectively—decided to turn the hobby into a day job.
They set up shop in a tiny Greenpoint space in 2007 and began scouring the world for the best cacao beans. Two years ago, they moved their operation to a 2,000-square-foot Williamsburg factory.
The duo invites the public to watch them painstakingly make every bar, each branded by the origin of the beans—using a process that takes 37 days and isn't practiced by any other city chocolatier.
Such precision has earned Rick, 34, and Michael, 31, a growing list of fans. Mast Brothers Chocolate sells to 120 stores and restaurants, mostly in the New York area, and has a waiting list of more than 1,500 worldwide. Even President Barack Obama feasts on its creations. The business, launched with $35,000 in savings, just became profitable, and the Masts are expanding their factory in order to triple production.
The brothers and their 14 employees taste their products all day, but say they never feel sick.
“Our chocolate isn't really a candy,” Rick said. “It's more like caviar.”

Join us and experience New York’s hottest fall tradition with seven bands from chile-loving nations around the world, including Indian bhangra and brass, a Haitian dance fĂȘte, and Brooklyn’s own ukulele gals. Sample goodies from today’s hottest chocolatiers and cast your vote at the Chile Chocolate Takedown. Delight in spicy cooking demos by top NYC chefs and enjoy sizzling sauces, pickles, and other red-hot specialties. Don't miss your chance to savor the fiery flavor…Brooklyn style.

Festivities will include live music featuring Brady Rymer and the Little Band That Could, a farmers market with delicious food from local purveyors, hayrides around the property, theatrical performances by Story Pirates, workshops on food and farming, our Seasonal Pie Bake-Off, and more!
Delta Spirit's Matt Vasquez came through town to play a show at Webster Hall with Deer Tick and said he'd be down for doing an episode. We caught up with him and his friends from Mast Brothers Chocolate where everyone was meeting before heading over to the Dr. Dog show on Governors Island. Just looking at their website now, they have this one quote up from Pete Seeger, "I want to turn the clock back to when people lived in small villages and took care of each other." When we first met with the women's groups in Uganda who were doing just that we told them that we wanted to help but also we wanted to spread their message of forgiveness and example of community to the world - these are women living in a true community, caring for each other in the face of some of the hardest circumstances one can imagine. Matt and the boys from Delta Spirit have been long time advocates for peace in Central East Africa and great friends and supporters of Invisible Children, and when we spoke on the phone and talked about the project Matt said absolutely right away, and thought that he'd like to pass it on to his friend AA Bondy. Many thanks to Matt for this impromptu session, to Kenny from IC for hooking us up, Kalim, and everybody at Mast Bros.
Inside the Little Chocolate Factory So Good Willy Wonka Would Kill Himself
Interview by Joshua David Stein, Video by Woody Jang
The Mast Brothers make chocolate in NYC. It's one of the very few places that craft bean-to-bar chocolate. It is crazy delicious. With our friends at Eater, we'd like to show you how they make it. And their beards.
A stark contrast to the vast industrial operations of Hershey, Nestle or just any other chocolate company you've ever heard of, they produce around 1,000 bars a day, hand-roasting in a small convection oven, using old school techniques and equipment, like a stone grinder. (With the exception of their winnowing machine, custom-made by a former aerospace engineer. A winnowing machine pulls the shells off the beans before they're ground, essentially.)
While the mega-corporate chocolate industry has looked for ways to make their chocolate even cheaper—going so far as to lobby the FDA so they can replace cocoa butter with vegetable oil and still call it chocolate—the Mast Brothers' chocolate is stripped down and natural. They don't add vanilla (or a chemical version), extra oils or butters, or emulsifiers. What that means is that you can taste the chocolate, and where it comes from—comparing a chocolate from Madagascar to one from Venezuela, you can taste the difference, like the terroir in wine or coffee.
A bar of Mast Brothers chocolate goes for around eight bucks, or you can get taste of it at restaurants like Thomas Keller's Per Se and the French Laundry, or the New York outpost of Blue Bottle Coffee in a mocha. Pricey, but it's worth it, if you love chocolate.

